Between a Sea and an Ocean

Feb 26
10:22 p.m.

Rough week.
These long hours are so much more difficult knowing I’m missing out on this beautiful Granada weather. Oh well, only one more week to go! (Not much time left to find a job and place to live!!) I have been teaching every night this week, as well as a private lesson this morning, so I’ve been a little stressed out. Classes have gone really well though, for the most part. One class I taught the context of “describing people” and used a picture of Aaron and Cara (from the Christmas party) and used the example phrases “My sister has long blonde hair and big blue eyes. My brother is tall and wears glasses. He is a mailman”. I have also had a conversation in my professions lesson about Tom and Barbara. Oh, good fun. I also taught one of my classes a Dolly Parton song, which went over really well!

I also got to spend a few nights in a different room because mine (the one without windows) started leaking sewage through the walls last week and has the worst smell ever. I’m back in there now, and although they “fixed” it, I’ve been spending a lot of time out of the house.
This past weekend was busy- Friday was Caz’s last night (muy triste) so of course we were all out until the wee hours dancing and having fun. Saturday Tabitha, Vicky and I drove to Cadiz for Carnivale! It was great because Tabitha let me play with her fancy camera during the entire 4 hour drive and I got a ton of great shots. (two pictured). We also stopped in Tarifa (where Tabitha’s from) both coming and going and it is absolutely charming!

It’s such a cool town because it’s right on Gibraltar and there is a very distinct line out in the water where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Mediterranean Sea- they are so visibly different, it’s crazy! Cadiz Carnivale itself was absolutely nuts- thousands and thousands of people EVERYWHERE and they were all in costumes. It’s funny, most of the men (probably 85%) dress up like women, so it gets a little confusing. All three of us saw men in our exact costumes. When we stopped in Tarifa again on the way back we ended up eating at this fantastic Tex-Mex restaurant. It was the perfect comfort food, and fairly authentic! We ate enough for probably 15 people (there were 5 of us, Tabitha’s boyfriend and brother had joined us). Sunday night, back in Granada, I cooked dinner at Paul and Gillians’ for them, Karen and Angel, and Vicky and myself. It was nice and relaxing, and the food turned out pretty good as well.

The only other thing I’ve done this week besides classes was an intercambio (a meeting with the purpose of practicing languages) with a guy named Diego. He made dinner and we just kind of hung out on Tuesday night and spoke in Spanish. (Next time it will be English).
The highlight of my week was a surprise package from Heather- an EXCELLENT compilation of all sorts of fantastic items!

SABES QUE…
The residents of Granada call themselves Granadinos.

I'm Right Where I'm Supposed to Be.

Feb 19
11:36 p.m.

I love this country.
Despite the long hours in this slightly unorganized and poorly run TEFL program, I have discovered that I do enjoy facilitating a classroom (of adults). There are some incredibly funny mispronunciations from little old ladies in the course—one in particular has turned “I’m shopping for beach shirts” into “I’m interested in bitch shit.” And repeatedly shouted “I want to lose my shirt”. Tonight during my random snack foods lesson she kept saying a “i want to eat a jar of peanut butt” and then yelled "Penis Butter!!!!!" a few times. Good fun for everybody. All of us TEFL students get along so well, and I am positive that several of those friendships will last forever. (pictured: Me, Carol and Olga after an insanely long day of classes and teaching). 
I am starting to actively look for jobs for once this course is over (assuming I pass the grammar test!) I have made friends with several of the students who are now taking our English courses and I am hoping to elicit some one-on-one tutorial lessons.
Other than that, we haven’t had much time for social lives. 12 hours a day of classes followed by student teaching and then maybe a drink or dinner at the convent before bed. Last night I made an enormous amount of tacos and shared with Caroline, Olga, Carol (I finally got to see some of her amazing work!!! www.carolcronin.com, watch the media video) two random German guys who just moved in and Mercedes, the property manager, from Venezuela. It was such a fun/laid back night full of very personal conversations translated into various languages.
Tonight after our student teaching, Olga, Carol and I went to a bar near our convent and had tapas that included OCTOPUS! I put on my big-girl brave pants and had one. I was a little weirded out, but very proud of myself. We had a fantastic time, not only do we get along incredibly well, I love hearing about the random differences in our cultures.

SABES QUE…
In the Czech Republic, women add a “ova” to the end of their last names to distinguish their femininity. I have decided to start doing it as well, just call me Svobodova.

A Romantic Weekend in Milan

Sunday Febrero 15 

11:36 p.m.

I've just returned from a delightful weekend in Italy. When Robert left last Monday, we agreed to meet somewhere this weekend, and ended up deciding on Milan. I left for the airport right after classes on Friday (around 8) and barely caught my 10pm flight to Barcelona. When I arrived there, I decided just to sleep in the airport and had to have been the only person there not on the airport cleaning staff. I curled up with my little suitcase and a little wine on the most uncomfortable hand-railed benches- very awkward. After a few hours I figured SURELY there had to be a more comfortable place to sleep and after some investigation discovered one lonely little row of un-handrailed benches in a quietish little nook. I woke up to a text message from my friend Vicky around 5:30 a.m. on her way back home from a night out in Granada, which worked out perfectly because there were a few problems with my check-in for my 6:20 flight to Rome, and I only just made that one. Finally around 10:50 a.m. I landed in Milan and was met by my smiling, scruffy bombero! (Who just happened to have a jar of an alternative brand Nutella and a spoon- Incredible!!) We took a bus into town and walked for ages until we found a hotel. (We later discovered that we hadn't even made it close to the city center). We dropped our stuff off and then walked around some more- beautiful streets with beautiful buildings- we had an amazing fried ball of cheesy something from a street vendor as well as some pizza (at this restaurant I tried to order a glass of wine and he brought out an enormous pitcher. It was hilarious), then later that night we went out for an absolutely incredible meal at a place called Ristorante Norman. It was beyond romantic and beyond delicious- plus in one candlelit corner, there was the cutest little painting on the wall of a cartoon tomato man. We split an incredible sundried tomato pasta thing, had a giant platter of mixed grilled meats and veggies, and then ordered two desserts. (A chocolate mousse on a hot crepe (the waiter called it a "hot crap" hahaha) and the most incredible dark gooey chocolate/peach tart. Amazing. 

On Sunday we woke up early for breakfast then started sightseeing. We stumbled into this beautiful, elegant, romantic place full of cases upon cases upon cases of chocolates and pastries and cakes and pies and all sorts of good things. (We each had a glass of champagne and I got the best croissant of my life filled with a thick pistachio cream.) Then we wandered towards the duomo (pictured) and were both completely awe-struck at how enormous the inside was. We even got to hear a little bit of the mass from the cardinal! I dunked my fingers in the holy water in honor of Emily and Cara. After that we went to yet another cafe, this one on a secluded little street that was near a street market full of all kinds of crazy stuff. The place wasn't huge, but it was packed so we sat in the back room near the kitchen. 

We ended up combining my spaghetti with meat sauce and his cheesy meaty calzone for yet another amazing meal. I absolutely love real Italian food. After that, it was about time for me to catch my flight so we said our sad goodbyes. 

It is a miracle in itself that I made all 5 of my flights this weekend! I would avoid any Spanish airlines if you ever can, but highly recommend Alitalia- best flying experience I've had in years! 

Instead of the usual "SABES QUE...."

I quiero saber:

Why do giant massive airplanes only need 3 little wheels but giant trucks need 18?!

Our Favorite Italian Music Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49e9rYk5FyI

¡¡Una Semana Loca!!

Feb 12, 10:14 p.m.

Last Friday was my last day of Spanish classes, and we had a field trip! We went to the biblioteca to compete in teams looking up information about Spain in Spanish reference books. Afterwards we all went out for tapas and then over to Miguel’s house where Robert and I attempted to teach everyone Texas Hold ‘Em. (Apparently not a game in China, Holland, or Spain). Around 9:30 I left to go meet up with my Spanish “club” again at the intercambio bar. My school friends came along and everyone thought I was weird for being a part of it.
After that, Rafa showed us all his favorite weird bar in Granada—called Rincon de Michael Landon (Michael Landon’s Corner) which was indeed very weird. (Basically a shrine to the actor). After that we all headed back to one of my favorites: Van Gogh.

On Saturday, Gillian and I headed out to Cordoba, a beautiful town about the size of Granada about 2 hours northwest. We started out at the ruins of Madinat al-Zahra (A planned palatine city located a few miles west of Cordoba, was founded by 'Abd al-Rahman III in 936. www.archnet.org) Afterwards we headed into the city itself for a look at the ancient synagogue, some beautiful historic streets and of course the giant Mosque (now called the “Cathedral of Cordoba” because of the giant ornate chapel built right in the middle of the perfectly simplistic mosque). It was absolutely amazing. I am completely enamored with this city. On Saturday night Robert and I discovered that he had been locked out of the school where he had chained his big backpack to a bicycle rack, and a very sneaky rescue operation ensued.

Sunday we had breakfast in this wonderful square very close to the cathedral: Plaza Bib-Rambla. It is adorable now, but apparently back in the day it was used for executions. I moved out of Leo’s house into my convent. (Robert and I had the ‘seems like a good idea’ of carrying ALL of my suitcases and stuff up the giant cobblestone hill on foot. He ended up carrying almost everything, and it was quite the accomplishment- people were coming out of their houses to stare. The new place isn’t perfect, but does have its good points. I miss having an outdoor window, and my room is a little dank and moldy, but it’s very nicely situated. I have a beautiful old wooden closet door, inside which the following is inscribed:
“15 de Mayo 1922
Cayetano Ricardo”

After I got all unpacked, we went to Paul and Gillians house where Karen (Holland) and her boyfriend Angel (Spain) made dinner for the 6 of us. It was delicious and a really nice and relaxed evening before the onslaught of this crazy week.

Which brings me to the TEFL course. It is INTENSE. We’re there from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. and then have to come home and do more work to prepare. I am missing speaking Spanish, I was really starting to get the hang of it. I still take any opportunity to speak it, but the opportunities are limited when you’re stuck in an English course all day. I like everyone in the class though. Carol from Ireland, Olga from the Czech Republic, Jose from Spain, Tabitha from the UK/Spain, Aaron from Georgia and Russ from Nashville. Great group dynamics (although it does get a little tense among us southerners when the beef vs. pork barbeque debate surfaces. Beef of course.) We have mostly been focusing on learning a specific teaching model using dialogue and role play, but had a random Polish class thrown in there (to empathize with the students) and then a lot of lesson prep work. I taught my first class tonight! I was expecting 6 intermediate students and got 3 beginners so I had to improvise a lot. I think it went okaaaaaay. I did learn a bunch for next time (Tuesday) though. The only thing I’ve done besides work for this course this week is visit the baths again with Vicki, Adele and Chelsea (Spanish students). I think it may become my Spanish guilty pleasure.

SABES QUE…
That in Ireland all crosswalks are called “Zebra crossings”?

Cave Dwelling & Turkish Bathing

Another rare day of Sun!!! (I came here for the weather and there has already been almost half of the average annual rainfall.) I am currently sitting out on the balcony of one of my classrooms and soaking it up.

Another excellent weekend! On Friday and

 Saturday we went camping up in the caves past the Alhambra, which are absolutely beautiful! Apparently a lot of them are inhabited by the gypsies but we found a charming empty one to set up the tent in. (This picture is our view from the tent in the cave).

 Also on Saturday Gillian, Paul and I took an excursion through the Alpujarras (the cluster of towns (pueblos) throughout the mountains on the other side of the Sierra Nevadas from Granada. There are a ton of them and they are all absolutely beautiful- Almost entirely white painted buildings and mostly pretty well preserved. We started out in a pueblo called Lanjaron- which is one of the larger ones and famous for its drinking water. Two of the other pueblos we visited are called Pampaneira and Capileria, both of which were beautifully situated and incredibly charming. I wouldn’t mind living in either of those. The fourth pueblo is called Trevelas, which is the highest pueblo in Spain and one of the highest in Europa. It is famous for 

it’s jamon, because the air is perfect for the curing process. We ate a FANTASTIC lunch at a restorante there, (mostly pork and jamon related) and then went next door for a tour of the jamon factory. There were probably 8,000 legs of pigs hanging up in that building, like a cave of flesh. Some of us handled it better than others. When we finally returned to the city I met up with Robert and Caz for a delicious dinner and some drinks and dancing.

Sunday was fairly relaxed. I tried to nap most of the morning but for some reason there was a marching band parading up and down my street for several hours. I do love a good parade! I still haven’t figured out the occasion, but I have seen them out around the city on other weekends, so maybe it’s just a thing. I also spent several hours with Caz’s new roommate, Anna from Sweeden, walking around and having some coffee and just chatting. I am continuously embarrassed by the lack of languages the majority of Americans know- so many Europeans can speak 3 or more languages (and some of their English is a lot better than some Americans’ I know). Sunday night Robert and I headed out to a Superbowl watching party at an Irish bar called Hannigans. It was live, so we were there from midnight to about 5 a.m., but it was a fantastico game (even though we were going for the Cardinals). I have also learned and now been quizzed over the various hand-signals for penalties.

This week we have about 8 new students in the school so the classes have shifted around a bit. Anna and another guy from Sweeden have joined Paul and I, as well as anew teacher named Lola who I really like. I can’t believe how fast this month has gone by! I have learned a ton, but I think I had unrealistic expectations of being able to be completely fluent in a month. After classes Monday, Paul, Gillian and I went to my new favorite place- the Banos Arabesque (Turkish/Arabic baths). AMAZING. The most beautiful little building with incredibly detailed Moorish architecture full of candles and pools of various temperatures, a sweet minty tea, fountains and a steam room. I inquired about living there forever but apparently it is a bit out of my price range. You can also pay 2 Euros more for a 20 minute massage. I will be going back. Afterwards Robert and I went out to grab a drink and some tapas in honor of Groundhog Day (not a thing here).

Yesterday was another ordinary day of classes but afterwards Robert and I went back to my favorite chocolate/churros café (Café Futbol) where I believe the waiters are beginning to recognize us. We hung out there for most of the afternoon, drank a vat of hot thick chocolate, and I read while he wrote (he is writing a novel). I left a few times to meet with various people to look at available apartmentos. There were several good options, but I believe on Sunday I will be moving into a convent. (Well this wing is now owned separately, but it is adjoined to a closed working convent. It seems like it will be very peaceful, and has the ONLY clothes dryer I’ve found in Spain, along with wifi, a delightful little courtyard, my own bathroom and a shared giant industrial kitchen. I spoke with the owner, Pedro, yesterday and he seems really nice. I hope to have the opportunity to practice my Spanish with him and the manager of the property, a woman whose name I forget. I believe there will also be several of the other TEFL students living on the property. 

Now I'm off to enjoy El Sol!!! 


SABES QUE…
Every Spaniard eats about 5 kilograms of cured ham per year.

Revolutions

29 de enero, 

8:53 p.m.

Things have been running smoothly this week, despite MORE cold rain. Good classes, several delightful dates with my bombero, and more interaction with the city and its inhabitants. One such interaction was a particularly rousing conversation with an older gypsy woman with no teeth in a bar we frequent for tapas. However during our conversation, unbeknownst to me, her darling gypsy toddler was stealing my cellphone. We discovered this right after they made their hasty exit, but it was too late. Soooooo that happened. Afterwards we (Caz, Robert and I) made our way to the Plaza Trinidad to meet some others for a pool tournament. It was a blast, and I'm pretty sure our team won!!! (if only by default in every single game).

Today was phenomenal- (SUNSHINE!!!) all of the students and most of the teachers went to Antonio's country home to pick olives (acetunas!) This was a process that involved laying nets down, then taking giant 15 foot poles and whacking the branches as hard as possible. Afterwards, we would sort through the nets and pull out all of the greenery and go through and handpick all of the remaining olives from the tree (which occasionally led to me climbing up to the tops). Afterwards all of the olives went into

 buckets and sacks to be taken to be pressed into oil (Acite). We worked for most of the day taking snack breaks for tostadas and then a phenomenal lunch of rice paella with conejo (rab

bit) and an incredibly tasty tomato/acite/oregano concoction. The house had the most amazing view! We could clearly see all of the Sierra Nevadas and miles and miles

 of other vineards and olive groves. Unbeliveably breathtaking! We all left feeling fantastically full and happy and exhausted. Tonight Robert, Caroline, Anita and I are making tacos and partaking in a gallon jug of red wine.

SABES QUE.....

That a forest fire traveling up a hill moves 60 TIMES faster than a fire on flat ground?

Me... I'm in Spain!!!! (for emily)

<------- (Paul, Gillian, Me, Anita and Blanca making dumplings for the Chinese New Year) 

26 de enero, Midnight:34.

AMAZING weekend!!! On Thursday we all went to a discussion about olives, olive oil, making olive oil, etc. Did you know that Spain is the largest exporter of olive oil (acite) in the world? Later that night a bunch of us went up to the far corner of the city to a tiny hard to find, unmarked basement bar for some live salsa music. It was great because we were definitely the only non-locals and everything was so casual (everyone dancing was in normal clothes and a lot of it was improvised). The music was amazing!! I am completely in love with it. It was also at this concert that it really hit me- I’m in Spain!!!! Until now I guess it just hadn’t set in. Anyway, we stayed pretty late, making for interesting classes on Friday. After classes we all went out for drinks and tapas as a farewell to William, who is returning to Taiwan. Lots of fun- about 6 hours worth until it was only me, Caz and Rafa left. We also met a gorgeous Californian firefighter (bombero) named Robert. After a dinner consisting mostly of jamon and queso, I headed off to meet up with some Spaniards at a bar near my house (Including Miguel Angel from the post office and Coralie who I’ve been emailing). They were a blast! More or less 15-20 people in this group of ages from late 20s to 50s. We went to several bars including a Spanish karaoke bar which was incredibly entertaining! We also did a little dancing. Finally around 4 a.m. I was exhausted so Miguel Angel dropped me off at my house on his scooter/motorcycle (in the rain, the whole time I was a little nervous and thinking I was very glad my mom couldn’t see me).
Saturday I woke up early to go search out markets with the ingredients I need for my guacamole. After I whipped up a batch I headed to Paul and Gillian’s GORGEOUS new house for a party celebrating the Chinese New Year. I had another “wow I LIVE here” moment when I ran into someone I knew (one of the professors) in the tiny streets of the Albyzin. At the party, Blanca (the one from China) had been cooking since 7 a.m. and we all jumped in to help her make these delicious little beef/onion dumplings. After we all finished our feast we sat around reciting/singing poetry, nursery rhymes, songs, etc from all of our various countries. When I left their house I got a call from Robert (the caifornian) wanting to meet up for drinks so Caz and I invited him to join us. We went to a fancy bar and made friends with some other Spaniards who bought several rounds of drinks and were absolutely HILARIOUS. Then Caz, Robert and I walked down to a bar called “Voulez Vou” where we had some questionable chupitos and lively conversation. Despues, Robert and I did a little dancing at a bar across the street.
Sunday, we met back up for walking around in the rain, discovering a few old buildings and chocolate and churros (a lot different than mexican churros- no cinnamon, the chocolate is this beyond-delightfully-think dipping goo.) Very romantic.

SABES QUE.....

Last year, an average of more than 80% of fires were caused intentionally in Spain.