Mis Cumpliaños!!!

My birthday was Monday (January 11) as well as my one year anniversary of living in Granada!
We celebrated in fine form with a girls’ night on Saturday. We started with wine and tapas and then moved into dancing at a discoteca called Ganivet (which burned down this year and has only recently re-opened. I really like it, as the music is great and it’s not a far walk from home).

On Monday (my actual birthday) I baked myself some Sprinkles Red Velvet Cupcakes sent from home in my new toaster oven (my christmas present from M&D!). They were, of course, delightful. Melinda and Rafa also surprised me with some mini-cupcakes, singing and a nice thick book in English!! A great day!

Monday night Melinda and I met up with my other Texas friends- Chris and Margaret (from Houston) and Angel at a Mexican restaurant for some fajitas and margaritas! A fantastic birthday!


SABES QUE
In Spain people don't buy you drinks or dinner for your birthday, but the typical custom is for the birthday boy or girl to pay for EVERYONE'S dinner and drinks for the entire night! My group of friends chooses not to partake in either custom.

Un Año Nuevo!

Feliz Año!! My favorite Spanish New Years’ tradition is kind of the equivalent to our countdown and kisses:

On Noche Vieja everyone waits for the 12 chimes of midnight- and at every chime you must eat a grape. Inevitably, by the twelfth chime everyone ends up with a mouth full of grapes. Unfortunately I was unable to partake in this tradition as I had a bit of a stomache flue, but we’ve decided to celebrate the Chinese New Year instead.

Oddly enough, I have seen a lot of pre-canned grapes lately. These weird me out.

Once I recovered, I hopped on a [9 hour] overnight bus to Valencia, where my old friend Michael lives. (Valencia is the third largest city in Spain, over on the eastern coast.)

Michael is an incredibly talented percussionist and plays professionally with the orchestra of the Palau de la Reina (I think). This is the coolest building in Valencia- it looks like a storm trooper helmet.
Anyway, we had a good time catching up on our lives since high school and hanging out with several of the other orchestra members. January 6th is el Dia de los Reyes- a national holiday equivalent to an American Christmas morning. This is the day that the kings/magi’s arrived to the manger scene with presents for baby Jesus- entonces this is the traditional gift-exchanging day in España.

However, the kings have to arrive (in grand style) the night before. Each town in Spain has a huge parade to celebrate their arrival, called the Cabalgata- and the kings themselves throw tons and tons of candy. (Traditionally they arrived on camels, but alas, now they’ve progressed to parade floats and no camels were to be seen at all.) It’s kind of funny to think about their elaborate entrance in comparison with Santa sneaking around and stuffing himself down chimineys. Anyway, it rained the entire time I was in Valencia, and the cabalgata was no exception. This didn’t stop us (or anyone else) from lining the streets in the hopes of catching some goods (or glimpsing a live camel). One neat thing about Valencia is that the kings all arrive on giant ornate ships and the procession starts there in the harbor. It was a very exciting, albeit camel-free, ordeal. (pictured: the first two kings)

Another day I was there I decided to set out on a little bit of an adventure. I caught the train to a small town a little north of Valencia called Sagunto (or just Sagunt in the traditional Valenciano dialect). It is the home of some of the oldest Roman ruins in the country, settled nicely on top of a large hill (or Texas mountain). I arrived in the pouring rain and was off to a cold, rocky start trying to locate a map or any tourist information, but a very nice security guard at the train station was friendly and helpful.
Despite the ridiculous downpour I really enjoyed exploring the town’s old neighborhood as I made my way up the hill to the ancient Roman Teatro. Everything was open to the public but I didn’t run into a single other human being as they all had the common sense to stay indoors where it was warm and dry. This made for excellent photos. I particularly loved wandering through the theatre because although they’ve restored it up to standards for modern day use, much of the original structure remains- including the dark twisty tunnels behind the seating. As I had no audience I took the liberty of enjoying my time onstage (I can’t believe it has been over a year since I have performed!!!!)

Afterwards I made my way further up the oh-so-steep hill to the top, where the remains of the castle and original town are perched. At this point it was raining so hard and the wind was so strong that any attempts of umbrella-usage were impossible so I was completely frozezn and soaked to the bone. I explored the ruins thoroughly but quickly, and then headed back down in search of a warm dry place. I popped into the Sagunto history museum for a few minutes to see some very interesting sculptures and carvings (much to the dismay of the woman working the desk, she asked that I shake like a dog first, and I can’t really blame her) before finally plopping down at a nice warm table in a small café. After a quick lunch it was back on the train and the beginning of the thawing process.

SABES QUE…

Alcoy, in Alicante province, proudly boasts the oldest cabalgata in Spain, and possibly, the Town Hall says, even the world. It’s been celebrated without interruption since 1885.
The three kings have names: Melchor, Gaspar and Baltasar. I heard a joke with word play on Baltasar, it sounds like ‘va-a-saltar’, which means ‘going to jump’. This is the punchline of the joke and all I can remember. (pictured: The Baltasar I saw in Valencia)

The Festivities Begin...

For about a month now the city has been looking more and more festive- 
I looooovvvveeee all the different lights in all of the main streets- these are some of my favorite- the chandeliers on one of the upper-scale shopping streets. You can also hear some Christmas music here and there, as well as many many nativity scenes, called 'Belens', which are more common than Christmas trees and tend to be very very detailed. 




Andújar
A few weekends ago Melinda and I jumped right into the holiday spirit with a little trip. On Saturday morning we loaded up the cars with lots of people and RIDICULOUS amounts of food and drinks and drove about 3 hours into the province of Jaén; on the bank of the river Guadalquivir.
Outside of the town Andùjar there’s this sanctuary/church called Real Santuario Virgen de la Cabeza that people go to to leave offerings and ask for things. (Some of the offerings we saw included photos, locks of hair, wedding dresses, prosthetic legs, etc.) The church is in the middle of all these gorgeous green hills, which are also home to the almost extinct Iberian Lynces (lynx).
In one of the valleys there is a tiny row of buildings owned by various pueblos. We stayed in the house of Campillo de Arenas, which is where a few of the guys in the group are from. There were about 30 of us in total, and no one knew everyone- a good mix of friends of friends of friends- so it was really laid-back and we all made new friends.
The house itself was amazing- two giant halls on the main floor and basement floor with giant fireplaces and a big luxurious bar. There was also a kitchen and patio outside. Upstairs were two bedrooms- caballeros y señoritas- each containing about 50 sets of bunkbeds and a small bathroom.

The weekend ended-up being non-stop, and I’m pretty sure no one got much sleep between all the games, dancing and food. We also saw a herd of ovejas (sheep) a few times!!!

On Sunday we all went for a little hike up to the church, as well as around the campo nearby before feasting on a giant giant paella. Then we cleaned like crazy and headed back home.

I was especially excited to make a few new Spanish girlfriends on that trip, one in particular named Beatriz (everyone calls her ‘Bea’) who I bonded with immediately. Through her I’ve since met some other girls and we’ve all gone out a few times- lunch at a Mexican restaurant, tapas, dancing. The Mexican restaurant in particular was really fun because there were about 20 of us and the electricity kept going out. Every time the electricity went out the owner came around with complementary tequila. It turned into quite the party… (pictured: me, Bea, Asun y Isabel)

Our little group of extranjeros (foreigners) also got together at Clare's house one weekend for a party- we're mostly teachers from the US, UK and a few others here and there, but it was a fun evening of charades and songs.

"Esta noche es Noche-Buena, 

y no es noche de dormir"


The big Christmas celebration happens on NocheBuena, December 24th. Traditionally the big family meal occurs on this night. I went with Angel to the home of one of his aunts- it was only the intimate family on his dad’s side (about 25 people) all of whom I had met before so I felt really comfortable. We sat at a long banquet table and passed around tons of plates with various things- the usual jamones, quesos y tortillas (kind of like a quiche), as well as fish, meat, various vegetables and then different little cakelets and a flan. We all drank wine and cava (kind of like champagne) and by the end of the meal everyone was singing Spanish Christmas songs and there were a few panderetas (tambourines) floating around. It was a lot of fun! One aunt then served as ‘Papa Noel’ and passed out presents to all of the children (the youngest was about 16ish) and she had even bought something for me- a beautiful bottle of Spanish perfume!!!

As the meal hadn’t even started until 10 p.m., we were late leaving but nevertheless went to some bars and discotecas for more drinks and dancing until the (not-so) wee hours of the morning. This resulted in me completely sleeping through actual Chrismas Day.


I have received many cards and a few amazing packages (gingerbread cookie kit from Aaron and Amanda, A ridiculously fun medley of Christmas activities, crafts and snacks from Heather, jalepeños from home) that have really made the holidays for me- thanks again, yall!!


Sabes Que…

Ever since ancient times, the Spanish have celebrated the coming of winter with a unique custom, called Hogueras. Reminiscent of the ancient Roman holiday of Saturnalia and the Northern European tradition of a Yuletide celebration, Spaniards celebrated the Winter Solstice by jumping over a fire, as a way to protect themselves against illness in the coming year. This was especially popular in the areas of Granada and Jaen. As Christianity gained power during the Middle Ages, Hogueras fell by the wayside, along with many other pagan customs.

http://spanish-history.suite101.com/article.cfm/christmas_in_spain

Boas Fiestas!!

That’s ‘Happy Holidays’ in Portuguese!

This past Monday and Tuesday were national holidays in Spain, so Angel’s family and I headed off to Lisboa for the break. We stayed in a little campsite just outside of the city- his parents in a camper-van and us in a little cabin (bungalow) that was just cute as the dickens.
We did a lot of sight-seeing (Belem, the Monasterio de los Jerónimos (pictured), Castillo de San Jorge, the Cathedral, etc) some shopping and ate some amazing Portuguese meals. (The meat was fantastic, but my favorite edible experience was the traditional tarta almendoa, (almond pastry, kind of like a pie).




Several other of my favorite experiences were:

1. Riding on the famous trolleys (tranvias). The city is Enormous!! Surprisingly so. And it is stretched over 7 giant hills, as well as a ton of smaller ones. We mostly stayed in Barrio Alto and Chiado (both in the city center) but dipped into the oldest area by the castle and cathedral a bit as well. That is where we rode the trolley (number 12) up and down some very exciting hills.

2. The famous Fabrica dos Chapéus, a specialty milliner where only a few customers are allowed to enter at a time, but each is paid a lot of attention, no matter how many times you try on every single hat in the store. We all ended up buying at least one (except Angel) and wore them for the rest of the day.

3. The Instituto do Vinho do Porto (the Portuguese “Port” wines). We did a tasting in this beautifully decorated old building. We tried several different types of Portos, my favorite being the Dow’s late bottled vintage 2004, as well as a few Portuguese cheeses. The thing about port wines is that they are all very very sweet and must be sipped slowly, but they really bring out some amazing tastes in the cheeses. (I recommend a cheese called évora, named after the town it is made in.)

4. Fado. This is the traditional song-style of Portugal, a bit like flamenco, but more melancholy. We went to the oldest Fado house in the city, Parreirinha de Alfama, a small cave-like room with a kitchen and about 12 tables. We ate fantastic food, and every few minutes or so someone would come out and sing, accompanied by a traditional guitar and a Portuguese guitar. A woman named Argentina Santos owns the place; She is an older woman who has been one of the most famous Fado singers for decades. She sang towards the end of the night and it was unbelievable what all she could do with her voice. (Watch her here.)

5. The Christmas Decorations!!!! This was hands-down my favorite part of the trip. Lisboa is a city that holds nothing back in the way of festivities: Every single street in the center was bedecked with giant beautiful designs of light- each different! Every time we turned a corner I couldn’t help but squeal with delight. There were also more than a few giant lit-up Christmas trees to be found around the city, as well as hundreds of homes with “Papa Noels” (Santa Clauses) climbing into windows or scaling down the sides of the buildings. We even saw one Santa driving a trolley!

It is also worth noting that many of the buildings themselves were tiled in beautiful, colorful, hand-painted and detailed designs.

SABES QUE…
There was an enormous and devastating earthquake that occurred in Lisboa in 1755, destroying almost all of the architecture (what wasn’t destroyed by the earthquake itself was ravaged by the consequential fires that lasted for days). This resulted in the Portuguese being some of the first to make giant steps in earthquake research and safer reconstruction.

Five Mundane Things

1. On Friday I got a fantastic haircut. I tipped my stylist with a cheap bottle of red wine and she was ecstatic.

2. I have a student who can’t distinguish the different pronunciations of ‘kitchen’ and ‘chicken’. She also clucks when she gets frustrated.

3. We went to a car show this past Saturday. There are tons of little smartcar type things that don’t require a European driver’s license. (Santa?) The music played at the show was the same as the music Gob uses for his magic shows in the TV show Arrested Development. It is worth noting that this character always travels by segway (unfortunately not too be seen in this particular car show).






4. Yesterday we roasted chestnuts (castañas) over an open fire.

5. We spent a good deal of Saturday night at a bar trying to come up with palindromos: (words or phrases that have the same letters and meaning backwards and forwards).

 

English examples:
Eye
Racecar
Do geese see God?
Never odd or even.

I was very proud of my Spanish vocabulary that evening!

Spanish examples:
Somos o no somos
Luz azul
Amor a Roma.
Dábale arroz a la zorra el abad.

Thanks, Man!

I’m starting to get a little sad and nostalgic about being so far away from my wonderful family during the holidays. However, I was able to make my Favorite fall food the other day thanks to a certain M. Flapjack Ramsour who sent me the mix for Sprinkles pumpkin cupcakes!!! DELICIOUS!I have also been teaching Thanksgiving themed classes this week to a variety of reactions among my students. In one class I had them work in teams to invent an entirely new holiday and all of the details. These teams came up with ‘International Chocolate Day’ and ‘Dessert Celebration!” They are my favorites.

For the actual day of Thanksgiving I had to work (but I’m thankful that I have a job) and so we weren’t able to celebrate until late. Melinda (Rhode Island), Dan (Chicago) and I ate a lovely meal in a British-owned bar (the one my roommate Will works at- Casa Lopez Corea) that consisted of several appetizers, a WONDERFUL pumpkin soup, turkey with stuffing, gravy, veggies, etc, and of course several delightful desserts including Apple pie!

We were stuffed! (pictured: Mel and I enjoying the desserts with power-ranger spoons. Since we were some of the last to eat, they had run out of normal, clean cuttlery. We found it very festive!)

Other notable events this week include a birthday party for my friend Pablo (my favorite of Angel’s friends) on Tuesday night, another jazz concert last Friday night (wonderful! An Italian ‘big-band’) and a little day-trip on Sunday with Angel up into the Mountains towards Güéjar-Sierra so that I could play with my new [hot pink] camera!

A highlight of this adventure was stopping at a little-old lady’s roadside veggie stand and seeing some of the MOST ENORMOUS onions, gords, etc. that I have ever seen in my entire life. The seems-like-a-good-idea of the day was buying a lot of stuff from her and trying to safely get it home on the moto. (We were successful in the end and celebrated by making a delicious veggie paella with some of the purchases.

People-watching has also been in high quality this week. On Tuesday night on my way to meet everyone at a bar across town for Pablo’s birthday I walked past a small hotel called Don Juan Hotel. It looked a little skeezy. Outside there were three Italian men dressed in their Saturday night best and smoking cigars. They were speaking in the ideal stereotypical accent and cat-calling at every girl who walked by. Way to feed the stereotypes, fellas. I also saw a younger woman (cute, small, blonde) on Monday morning in the official jumpsuit uniform of the city’s street sweeping staff. She was pushing a giant trash can onto which she had Duct taped a huge boombox circa the 1990s! She was BLARING music and singing very loudly. I found that a little strange as well. God bless this city. They’ve just passed a law trying to clean the community up a bit that bans pretty much everything in the streets (eating, drinking, singing or playing an instrument, selling anything, gatherings of more than 4 people at a time, etc.) Hopefully it won’t scare all of the crazies away- they sure do keep it interesting.

SABES QUE
The world record for the heaviest onion is a 16lb 8½oz (468g) onion grown in West Midlands. The previous record was a 15lb 15½oz (454g) onion which held the record for ten years.

Lazy November

It has been a fairly normal couple of weeks. Working, dealing with the weather’s mood-swings, tapas, etc.

Halloween was a blast. Angel and I dressed up as Popeye and Olive Oyl (“Pop-ay-yay” y Oliva) except Angel wanted some gore so he was “Scary Popeye” . We went out with a bunch of friends so some bars and discotecas. There may have been some karaoke involved… Fun night.

We have also been going rock-climbing a little bit lately. We usually drive up (in the opposite direction from the Sierra Nevadas) to outside of a small town called Alfacar. It is exciting!

Angel and I have also reached the six month mark. While we didn’t do anything to specifically celebrate that day, we have done some more adventures lately.

One I particularly enjoyed was a Sunday when we drove up through the Alpujarras (the small villages scattered about in the Sierra Nevadas). We started in Lanjaron (the village has natural springs and provides a lot of the bottled water for the country) and tested the waters. Then we made our way up to the tippity top- Trevelis.

This is one of the highest pueblos in Spain, and FAMOUS for it’s jamon. (I toured one of the factories in February with Paul and Gillian). We walked around the town for a bit with Gusanna, bought some roadside raspberries (frambuessas- mmmmmm!!) and finally selected a small but cozy bar to eat a big feast of jamon and cheese and meats and fruits. Delicious!

After we ate we jumped back in the car and drove over to another pueblo- Capileira. By this point the sun was setting and the wind was UNBELIVABLE- we’re talking gale-force plus. And so we didn’t get the chance to walk around too much but settled in for a glass of wine and a tapa before heading back home. A very successful journey.

The following weekend we took a daytrip on the moto-de-campo.
We drove up through into the mountains through the heavily-forested areas and ended up on the ruta de vaca. (A really pretty little drive with lots of cows.) We also went to see a jazz concert that night as there is a festival in town and it was pretty good!

Because it has been so long since my last post, I will treat you to not one, but TWO tidbits of information.

SABES QUE

According to Angel (I’ve done no thorough research on this topic) Beetles in the dessert are able to survive by storing water/dew in little deposits in their forelegs. This suffices for the entire day’s supply of hydration.



SABES QUE
Tapa literally means ‘cover’ or lid’ and way back in the old days originated when people would place a slice of bread (or ham or cheese) on top of their jar/glass/mug to either keep out the flies, or prevent drunkenness (reports vary). Now they can be anything- many restaurants and bars are very creative with their recipes. My favorite is still the classic piece of toast with jamon Serrano or Iberico and a slice of Manchego cheese. Here are some other recipes:
http://www.arrakis.es/~jols/tapas/index2.html